3:00 pm on Sunday the 4th of June, 2017 – The Start of My 630-mile South West Coast Path Walk

South West Coast Path Marker

Lao Tzu once said, “The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” My journey of 630 miles ends with one step. Or so I thought.

It was my first day of walking. I wasn’t even on the actual path yet. I was leaving my first bed-and- breakfast on my way to start walking the actual path, when I slipped. On the wet stone steps. Word of warning: stone steps are slippery after a rain. My foot suddenly slid out from under me. Fortunately I caught myself before falling flat on my rucksack, utilizing the railing of the steps that were strategically placed for me to finally use. Yet I felt a twinge in my right thigh. “Great,” I thought. Eight months of planning for a three-month 630-mile walk gone in an instant. I hadn’t even walked a foot yet on the South West Coast Path.

Figuring out an itinerary of how many miles per day I wanted to walk, reserving nearly 50 bed-and-breakfasts, carrying guide books with maps and booklets with directions, carefully packing what I would need, all possibly gone. After looking around to make sure no one saw my embarrassing slip, I took a deep breath, and walked slowly and carefully down the rest of the steps and off the bed-and-breakfast property. So far so good. I walked down the road, around a hair-pin turn and headed downhill, as I was instructed to do by the proprietors of the B&B in order to find the bronze monument of hands holding a map, marking the beginning of the South West Coast Path.

South West Coast Path Marker

But there were supposedly two hair-pin turns I was supposed to take, before heading downhill. I started pacing up and down the street for a couple of times looking for where I was supposed to be going. “Great,” I thought. I’m not even on the South West Coast Path yet, and I’m already lost.

Fortunately there was a couple sitting romantically on a little park bench, and I asked them politely. “Excuse me, can you please tell me where the beginning monument of the South West Coast Path is located?” They kindly advised me where to go, and with my right thigh seeming to be just fine, I found the monument.

It was official. I was there! I was really there! Months and months of planning. Weeks and weeks of looking forward to this day. Days and days of anticipation. Hours and hours of traveling to get here. I was here. I was really here! In Minehead, England – the start of the walk, or the end of the walk if you walk in the opposite direction, of the South West Coast Path.

South West Coast Path Minehead

I had a photo shoot with the monument. Some photos of just the monument. Some with my purple shoes and the monument – the shoes that I would wear most of my walk. Some photos with me after I asked someone to kindly take my picture, as I was wearing my rucksack and holding the first of four Nationals Trail Guide books that I would be using for my walk. I took photos of different angles of the monument. Close-ups, far away shots. I took photos of the words faded on the ground saying, “South West Coast Path National Trail,” complete with an arrow pointing me in the right direction, and an acorn, the important symbol of National Trails in England, including the South West Coast Path. I took photos of another sign showing me that I was even about to walk “part of the England Coast Path!”

South West Coast Path Minehead

When the photo shoot was complete, it was time. Time to walk. Time to start this path. My right thigh was fortunately doing alright. Was I nervous? Was I excited? A bit of both at the moment. “Just put one foot in front of the other. And walk. Don’t think.” That’s what I told myself. One step at a time. After all, the journey of 630 miles begins with one step.

I was off. At exactly 3:00 pm on Sunday the 4th of June, 2017, England time, I started my 630-mile walk along the South West Coast Path.

Sweet Travels!

28 Lighthouses in Washington State – A Bucket List Item Completed

Admiralty Head Lighthouse Whidbey Island

Twenty-eight lighthouses. Some of these, I actually saw more than once. At one lighthouse, my husband and I spent a few weekends one summer doing volunteer restoration work. At another lighthouse, my husband and I got married!! Some lighthouses were seen from the vantage point of a sailboat. My husband and I made a special visit to see one lighthouse at Christmas time. A few offered tours, while others were seen off in the distance from the coast to an island. They are the lighthouses of Washington State. And with these 28 lighthouses, I have completed a Bucket List item of visiting or seeing a vast majority of the lighthouses in Washington State.

Alki Point Lighthouse West Seattle

At one lighthouse I learned the meaning of the word “pharology” – “one who studies or is interested in lighthouses” – that’s me! At another lighthouse, I walked 10 miles round trip just to see it, twice, once by myself and once with my husband. Two lighthouses were close to the border with Oregon so were seen during a trip of visiting the vast majority of the lighthouses on the Oregon Coast.

Browns Point Lighthouse Tacoma

Not knowing which order to list them in this blog, I decided to go in alphabetical order. By clicking on each photo, it takes you to the particular blog I wrote about each lighthouse. If I wrote more than one blog about the same lighthouse, I have included two pictures, each with a different link. In other words, there are more than 28 blogs based on the 28 lighthouses.

The first lighthouse above is Admiralty Head on Whidbey Island where I learned a few lighthouse jokes, and about “traveling libraries.” At Alki Point in West Seattle, the second lighthouse above, I took a tour guided by US Coast Guard Auxiliarists. Brown’s Point Lighthouse in Tacoma, in the picture just above, is where I learned that I am a pharologist. Below are two photos from Burrows Island Lighthouse where we volunteered with doing some restoration work.

Burrows Island Lighthouse

Burrows Island Keepers Quarters

Continuing on with the 28 lighthouses, this is the pyramidal concrete tower of Bush Point Light on Whidbey Island:

Bush Point Lighthouse Whidbey Island

Cape Disappointment is one of two lighthouses we visited near the Oregon border:

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

Cape Flattery Lighthouse is located on an island at farthest northwesternmost corner of the Continental United States:

Cape Flattery Lighthouse

Cattle Point Light is located near some good walking trails on San Juan Island:

Cattle Point Lighthouse

The lighthouse on Destruction Island can be seen far off in the distance from Ruby Beach along the Olympic Peninsula Coast:

Destruction Island Lighthouse

Dofflemeyer Point Light in Olympia is on a private beach but can be viewed from the marina of Boston Harbor:

Dofflemyer Point Lighthouse

Ediz Hook has been moved from its original location and is currently in a residential area of Port Angeles:

Ediz Hook Lighthouse

Gig Harbor Light on the Kitsap Peninsula is only 15 feet tall:

Gig Harbor Light

While Grays Harbor in Westport is the tallest lighthouse in Washington State at 107 feet:

Grays Harbor Lighthouse

Lightship Swiftsure in Seattle is one of the few remaining “floating lighthouses”:

Lightship Swiftsure

Lime Kiln Lighthouse is located in the 36-acre day-use Lime Kiln State Park on San Juan Island, another place with some good walking trails:

Lime Kiln Lighthouse

Here is Lime Kiln Lighthouse decorated at Christmas time:

Lime Kiln Lighthouse Christmas

Marrowstone Point near Port Townsend is located along a shoreline quite popular for fishing:

Marrowstone Point Lighthouse

Mukilteo Lighthouse is where my husband and I were married!!:

Mukilteo Lighthouse

New Dungeness is the lighthouse I walked 10 miles round trip to see, twice, once solo and once with my husband:

New Dungeness Lighthouse

New Dungeness Lighthouse

North Head is the second of two lighthouses we visited near the Oregon border:

North Head Lighthouse

Patos Island, one of the San Juan Islands, was originally named “Klu-whit-eton” by the Native American tribe, the Lummi:

Patos Island Lighthouse

Point no Point Lighthouse, which is located on the Kitsap Peninsula, is where I wondered, “What is the point of standing at the point of Point No Point Lighthouse?”:

Point No Point Lighthouse

The two keeper’s dwellings at Point Robinson Lighthouse, on Maury Island connected to Vashon Island, are available for weekly rentals:

Point Robinson Lighthouse

Point Wilson Lighthouse near Port Townsend and Fort Worden usually offers tours every Saturday from 1-4 from mid-May through mid-September:

Point Wilson Lighthouse

The “unusual” Skunk Bay Lighthouse, as seen from the other side of a fence, is currently a private time-share:

Skunk Bay Lighthouse

The keeper’s quarters of Slip Point, located on the beach of Clallum Bay Spit County Park, looks a lot like the Burrows Island keeper’s quarters:

Slip Point Lighthouse

Smith and Minor Islands is one of eight lighthouses my husband and I saw from the vantage point of a sailboat:

Smith and Minor Islands

Turn Point Lighthouse located on Stuart Island is part of Stuart Island State Park:

Turn Point Lighthouse

And last but not least, West Point Lighthouse is located below Magnolia Bluff at Discovery Park in Seattle:

West Point Lighthouse Discovery Park

I compiled my list of which lighthouses to visit in Washington State from a couple of different sources. First, I have a few posters on my wall at home that list some lighthouses, such as the Souvenir Lighthouse Map and The Great Lighthouse Hunt, both from Washington Lightkeepers Association. I also double checked these posters against lists of lighthouses in Washington State on the Lighthouse Friends website, and on the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill website.

The lighthouses that I have not visited (yet) include a few that are along rivers rather than along larger bodies of water, such as the Puget Sound or the Pacific Ocean. One lighthouse I have not seen is because it can only be viewed while riding on a ferry. And the Coast Guard Museum in Seattle which displays some lighthouse memorabilia will also require a visit someday. But by and large, with 28, I have completed my bucket list of visiting or seeing a vast majority of the lighthouses in Washington State!

I wonder what state will be next on my Bucket List to see all the lighthouses…?

Sweet Travels!

PS. I have also seen lighthouses on the South West Coast Path in England, along the Camino Finisterre to Muxia in Spain, and in Michigan which I have not written blogs on yet. And finally, a blog on the admirable pioneering Female Lighthouse Keepers.

Female Lighthouse Keepers: Women Who Cared for the Lights

To Keep The Light Erica Fae

They were wives, daughters, and mothers. They were pioneers, professionals, and hard-workers. They were strong, physically and emotionally. They were rescuers, saviors, and champions. They were female lighthouse keepers, the women who cared for the lights of lighthouses, and kept them burning.

Women Who Kept the Lights

These women not only cared for the lights, but also cared for their families, the home, visitors, people they rescued. They did household chores, cooked, cleaned. They polished brass, painted, and took care of animals and gardens. Most importantly they made sure the lights that guided those at sea to safety were constantly lit, and the fog bells constantly sounding as needed.

Mind the Light, Katie

Some were daughters who cared for the lights when their fathers could not return to the lights due to weather. Some were wives who cared for the lights after their husbands went off to fight in wars, became ill, or passed away. Some women started out as assistant keepers. Of these, many continued on to care for the lights because it then became their passion, their desire, their career.

Dory of the Lighthouse

Many of these female lighthouse keepers were officially recognized, receiving a keeper’s appointment. In fact, 144 women between 1830 and 1947 received official lighthouse keeper appointments. “Most of these women served in the 19th century, when the keeper lit a number of lamps in the tower at dusk, replenished their fuel or replaced them at midnight, and every morning polished the lamps and lanterns to keep their lights shining brightly.”(*1)

The Lighthouse Keeper's Wife

These women were important people who made sure those at sea were safe. Some even did daring rescues of sailors from capsized or wrecked ships. Some lived in harsh and dangerous conditions, survived through storms and hurricanes, and resided in remote and isolated places. However, they persevered through.

Three Beams of Light

I’ve read several books about these women who cared for the lights. I’ve also read some books written by women who experienced life at lighthouses, as wives and daughters of lighthouse keepers.

To Keep The Light Erica Fae

I also recently saw an award-winning independent film, “To Keep the Light.” The main character, inspired by true stories, is a composite character of many female lighthouse keepers “giving voice to their largely unknown experience.” Erica Fae not only wrote the film, but also directed, produced, and starred in the film. Ms. Fae writes that these women “were trailblazers, embodying feminism long before the word existed and far afield from the urban, intellectual circles that spawned the women’s rights movement.”(*2)

To Keep The Light

I am intrigued by these women, female lighthouse keepers, amazed and awestruck by their strength, courage, sacrifices, successes, and desires. I often wonder what their daily lives were truly like even though I’ve read books and saw the film. I sometimes wonder if I was a female lighthouse keeper in a previous life. I wonder if I would have had the ability, bravery, wisdom, stamina, heart, and spirit to be a woman who cared for the lights of lighthouses.

To Keep The Light Erica Fae

To Keep The Light Erica Fae

Sweet Travels!

Quote (*1) from “Women Who Kept the Lights, An Illustrated History of Female Lighthouse Keepers” by Mary Louise Clifford and J. Candace Clifford.

Some information obtained from above book and from “Mind the Light, Katie, The History of Thirty-Three Female Lighthouse Keepers” also by Mary Louise Clifford and J. Candace Clifford.

Quote (*2) and five photos are from the independent film by Erica Fae, “To Keep The Light.” Note that I saw the film at the Vancouver (Canada) International Film Festival where I also had the honor of meeting Erica Fae.

Click on all five books for links to Amazon.

Lightship Swiftsure – A Floating Lighthouse

Lightship Swiftsure

When we think of lighthouses, we usually picture tall towers and keeper’s quarters, bright beaming lights and loud foghorns, placed on the edges of land or on islands. However, did you know that there were these aids to navigation that were actually floating? These “floating lighthouses” were just as powerful, and used to be just as important, as their sisters on land. The bright beaming lights and loud foghorns were located on ships that were anchored offshore, floating in the seas, in places where building regular lighthouses were impossible or impractical. Known as “lightvessels” and “lightships,” they performed just like lighthouses.

Lightship Swiftsure

One of the oldest lightships in the United States is currently located in Seattle, and on one summer day, my husband and I drove down to the Historic Ships Wharf in Lake Union Park to board this vessel, walk around, and listen to information told by one of the volunteers. The Lightship Swiftsure was built in 1904 with sails and with steam engines. It is the only lightship today that still has her original steam engines.

Lightship Swiftsure

The name “Swiftsure” is this particular floating lighthouse’s current name from 1995. Prior to that, she had several other names depending on where she was located during her 56 years of service. “Blunts Reef ” off Cape Mendocino in California, “San Francisco” where she protected the foggy San Francisco Bay, and then “Relief” when she was first brought to the Puget Sound of Washington State, were some of her other names. Part of her service included time in the Navy during World War 2, in addition to originally serving with the United States Lighthouse Service, and finally the United States Coast Guard.

Lightship Swiftsure

In lightships, the light that shines to protect those at sea is located on a tall mast. Some lightships had two lights on two masts, one being a backup light. Just as the lights in lighthouses on land transitioned from oil lanterns and Fresnel lenses to electricity, so too did the lightships. Many lightships were painted red, with its name in white, because the color red is quite a visible color.

Lightship Swiftsure

As many as 179 lightships had been built in the United States between 1820 and 1983. Not only have lightships been assigned several names each, they were also given letters and numbers for identification. Although not continuous, consistent, and some are skipped, the letters are first A through Z, AA through AZ, then LV-1 to LV-118, and a few with the letters WAL and WLV. The Lightship Swiftsure is also known as LV83 and WAL 513.

Lightship Swiftsure

The Lightship Swiftsure was retired from service in 1960, and is currently undergoing renovation to stabilize her, to replace the wooden deck, to restore the electrical system, and to become a museum. Thus the tent covering over the vessel to protect it and the renovations from the weather. She is currently docked in Seattle as part of a heritage vessel and floating maritime museum area, along with other vessels, many of which can be toured during a visit.

Lightship Swiftsure

The Lightship Swiftsure was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in Washington State in 1975, and was recognized by the National Park Service as a National Historic Landmark in 1989.

Of the 179 lightships built, only about 15 lightships remain today. Most of these are located on the East Coast of the United States, and only a few on the West Coast. I feel fortunate that my husband and I live so close to one of these historic and important pieces of history, the floating lighthouse.

Sweet Travels!

Information in this blog from:

Literature on display at the Lightship Swiftsure itself, including articles by Northwest Seaport, Maritime Heritage Center, owner of the Lightship Swiftsure.

Article by Diana Hennick, Museum Specialist, Northwest Seaport, “Rehabilitation of the Lightship No. 83” on display at the Lightship Swiftsure.

Northwest Seaport: 1904 Lightship: No. 83, Swiftsure
Lighthouse Friends.com: Lightship Swiftsure LV83/WAL513, WA
Wikipedia: Lightvessel

The Dofflemeyer Point Light(house)

dofflemyer point lighthouse

My husband and I took a day trip this past summer to Olympia, Washington just to view the Dofflemeyer Point Light(house). More like a light tower, the unusual bit of information about this light is that a formal lighthouse keeper was never actually appointed to this particular light. Instead, “local residents were contracted to care for the light and activate the fog signal.” Located on a private beach, my husband and I needed to walk out on the marina of Boston Harbor for a view of the light tower, and to take a few photos.

dofflemyer point lighthouse

dofflemyer point lighthouse

Dofflemeyer Point Light (also spelled Dofflemyer) is located at entrance to Budd Inlet, which leads to Olympia, the state capital of Washington, and to the Port of Olympia. This light is the southernmost light in Puget Sound. As my husband and I took our photos, we also watched the other flurry of activity on the marina, including people enjoying their fishing boats, motor boats, and sailboats, as well as jet skiing, kayaking, and even playing on the part of the beach near the light that is not private.

dofflemyer point lighthouse

dofflemyer point lighthouse

The original light at this location that was established in December 1887 was a “post lantern” on top of a 12-foot stake. With the lumber trade as the main industry of the times, and other trades such as canned fruit and shellfish, the increase in ships carrying these various cargos made it necessary to increase the light needed to guide these ships safely. Therefore in 1934 the 30-foot pyramidal concrete light tower seen today was built.

dofflemyer point lighthouse

The Dofflemeyer Point Light was automated in the 1960’s by the Coast Guard, with its fog signal automated in 1987, and thus the need for the local residents as “care-keepers” was no longer needed. Today the Coast Guard maintains the signal.

dofflemyer point lighthouse boston harbor marina

In 1995, Dofflemeyer Point Light(house) was listed on the Washington State’s Heritage Register, as well as placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Sweet Travels!

Quote and information from this blog obtained from:
Lighthouse Friends-Dofflemeyer Point, WA
Northwest Maritime Heritage-Dofflemeyer Point Lighthouse
History Link.org-Dofflemyer Point Lighthouse